Silver Super Contributor
El_Katz
Posts: 1,331
Registered: ‎04-26-2009
Re: Interior Paint

You don't *need* primer unless you're covering a dark color, the walls have been patched, or they are stinky (smoke/animals). 

 

I am one of those that prefer not to use Behr or any of the other big box store paints.  Personally, I use Benjamin Moore.  Why?  Because it lasts and it's easily touched up - and the blended part disappears shortly after you paint (takes a few weeks for it to "flatten" out, but then it's invisible.  I just had to do some touchup in my living room on a wall painted 8 years ago and I defy you to find where I touched it up.).  My latest paint love is Benjamin Moore Aura.  Yes, it's ridiculously expensive, but it covers in one coat - it really does.  I went over a denim blue with a light grey and it was one coat.  It self primes over small repairs (nail holes for example) so there's no need for the extra time, money and effort to prime. 

 

Ceilings?  Bright white flat finish (Benjamin Moore Aqua Velvet).  There are a zillion whites - don't be tempted to use "decorator white" as it has a grey cast to it.  Ceilings seem to glisten if the white has a slight blue cast to it.  I do all the closets in white as well.  That way, if you ever repaint, you don't have to repaint the closet again.  I hate painting closets (actually,  I hate painting), so the more durable the product the happier I am.

 

I use oil base Benjamin Moore Impervo on the trim.  Yes, it stinks.  Yes it takes a minimum of 8 hours to dry.  But it also is infinitely scrubbable and, when the surface is smooth and caulked to the wall, makes your moldings look like glass.  It's what you'll see in a custom home.  It flows out well and doesn't leave brush marks. 

 

Tape?  Depends on what you're taping.  I've used the blue tape forever.  The trick to painting along masking tape is to seal the tape with the brush before you put on the heavy coat.  Most people draw the brush parallel to the tape.  However, if you put the brush on the tape and draw it back towards the surface you are painting, you won't force the paint under the tape.  That's where you get the bleed.  Once you cut in the edges, and the paint skins, you can roll over it with limited bleeding (if you pushed it down firmly along the edge to begin with). 

 

If the walls are really dirty (I mean greasy and messy), TSP or it's equivalent will clean the surface.  This is particularly important when painting kitchens where there is the issue of cooking grease. 

 

Use Purdy brushes and Purdy roller covers.  Again, a few bucks more but you'll do a better job.  Buy the right brushes for the job.  A 2.5" angled "Cub" brush (has a short handle) is ideal for cutting in along trim and ceilings.  I use narrow brushes (1-1.5") for window sash and door casings.  2.5" for baseboards.  If you do use oil, get a bristle (black) brush.  Just be sure to draw the paint out from one end to the other.  Most people screw up painting by starting in the corners and continue to pull all the paint out of the corner....  If you fill in the corner and then draw back to it, you'll have better coverage in the corners. 

 

More than you wanted to know... but.....